Martin McHugh, Monday 10 October 2011
Although many diners are aware of the importance of sourcing quality food, for example, free range chicken, rare breed pork, fine wines and so on, far fewer seem to be concerned about the origin of the beef they consume – even though this is a principal source of protein in our diet.
There are many breeds of cattle and yet do you know what breed has provided your rump steak? Certainly many people are aware of the merits of Aberdeen Angus – the World’s most numerous breed, but there are many other breeds that can provide good beef and even better tasting beef. Breeds such as the little black Dexter are famed for their flavour. Other great breeds are Devon Reds, Lincoln Reds and Hereford all with good marbling and excellent flavour.
British cattle have the highest standard of care in the world and we are one of the main sources of breeding cattle for the World. All British cattle are free range and are not treated with hormones as the cattle of many other countries are. In Germany there are even dining clubs devoted to eating British beef.
Supermarkets do not usually sell these great British breeds, favouring higher yield beefier cattle from cross breeding with large French breeds such as Limousin, but I am sure that they will in time. Until customers demand to know the breed of the cut the supermarkets will continue to sell European style cross bred beef from cows specially bred for yield rather than taste.
Beef for the table should be a very dark burgundy with yellowy fat running all over the flesh. This is not a result of the breed but is the result of hanging for several weeks. The tenderising effect of hanging was discovered during the war when Argentinean beef was unloaded in England after a 4 week voyage across the South Atlantic – Argentina has been famous for beef ever since!
You will find that many butchers are also reluctant to reveal the breed of your beef, but ask them and keep asking, in time we will be able to become good judges of beef as we are of favourite wines and particular cheeses. Restaurants are also leading the way with specific breeds often referred to on the menus of many restaurants at the higher end of the scale. This is your best opportunity to test which breed is your favourite – happy experimenting!
Martin McHugh is a member of The Chartered Institute of Marketing and a keen foodie. He is the marketing manager of a number of companies near London including two restaurants – Piaf and Reds Bar and Grill – in Wimbledon.