Wine Dine&
review: duke of york
Previously The Elm Tree, The Duke of York in Surbiton underwent a classy refurb opening in August of last year with a smart new name and new mandate: to be a welcoming local pub serving good food. Currently a nominee in the T&L Food Awards, the Duke of York pub has clearly made its mark – and as it is run by the team who runs the Duke of York in St Johns Wood and the award-winning Le Garrick in Covent Garden, this is no surprise.
No surprise either that the pub is so popular already. Its décor is simple and classy and we found this to be true of the menu too. British classics come with a bit of a spin: for example, bangers and mash with high-quality, locally-sourced sausages of unusual flavours; the freshest of fish dipped and fried in home-made lager batter with the famous Yorky chips - named for the pub - sturdy, robust and filling, just as they sound. Bolivian chef Omir also creates specials which are really special, including his home-made smoked cherry tomato soup of which he is justifiably proud. Prices are truly reasonable too – enjoy the finest steak and a drink here for £11.95.
Indeed, we went to the Duke to sample the steak - having heard of its excellent reputation – and it was moist and juicy, really meaty, just as a good steak should be; and we went also for the fish and chips which were fabulous. White chocolate bread and butter pudding proved irresistible and astonishingly good.
You always want a good local story when you’re in a pub, so here’s one: when Omir’s apple pie was taken off the Duke’s menu, we promise you, the streets of Surbiton ran wild with locals vocal in their protest! So it’s back on again now, for keeps.
You should go to the Duke for a classy classic meal and the warmth of the welcome; enjoy also the music nights, and the special celebrations on high days and holidays – but mostly go because we’ve got a great British pub run by experts who know what we want. And
for the apple pie of course. Review by Sarah Hodgson 64 Victoria Road, Surbiton 020 8339 9277
www.thedukeofyork.com
t&l .what’s on guide
SPECIAL OFFER: 3 course evening meal Mon-Thurs £19.50
Weston Green Thames Ditton KT7 0JX
www.trystrestaurant.co.uk
0208 398 3982
St. Marks Hill, Surbiton, Surrey Tel: 020 8339 5720
Ben Matthews & friends acoustic sets live in the lounge...
plus Mojito’s £5 all night
Satisfying people’s appetite for life’s simple pleasures
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