Review: Four Hundred Rabbits
Review: Four Hundred Rabbits
Sourdough pizza & inventive gelato flavours in Battersea Rise
According to Aztec folklore, the god of fermentation had four hundred children with the goddess of wine. These children were known as the 400 Rabbits (or Centzon Totochtin). And much like the myth that provides their namesake, Four Hundred Rabbits demonstrate a self-professed love for fermentation. It’s at the core of both sourdough bread and beer – two things that the restaurant is eager to make itself known for.
Four Hundred Rabbits weren’t always known for pizza. Rewind back to pre-2015, and they were The Lido Café, a brunch and beach bar overlooking the famous Brockwell Lido. The transition to pizza has proved fruitful for the business, and they opened their newest venue in Battersea Rise in July of last year.
They have a concentrated drinks menu of craft beers, as well as a range of natural wines from South Africa, Chile and Italy. The cocktail menu is short and focused – Four Hundred Rabbits don’t bother themselves with abundance for abundance’s sake. This quickly reveals itself as a strength for the business: the short cocktail menu allows them to really show off at what they’re good at, which is Negronis. There are four different variations on the menu: the classic Negroni with East London gin, Campari and Put e Mes, a spiced Negroni with mulling syrup and star anise, a Negroni Americano and a Negroni Sbagliato.
We opted for the Sbagliato, which arrived in a small, humble glass which belied the tastiness within. It seems that the restaurant’s MO is compact restraint, trimming down the showiness to allow flavours to speak for themselves.
Of course, we also had to try the beer. A pint of ‘Keller Pils’ craft lager from Lost & Grounded Brewery was delivered promptly to our table, and disappeared almost as quickly into our stomachs. Drinks done, it was time to move onto the food.
THE BEST FOODIE CONTENT:
To start, we shared a creamy burrata with rocket, basil and kale pesto, toasted seeds and Aleppo chilli. Burrata seems a must-have for every pizza menu now, but Four Hundred Rabbits manage justify its presence. The additions of toasted seeds and a sprinkling of chilli elevated the taste, adding extra flavour dynamics that interacted well with the rich creaminess of the burrata.
The pizzas arrived with a side of garlic bread with mozzarella, an indulgent yet worthy addition. I ordered the Burrata Pizza – the starter had swayed me, and I was ready for more. The generous toppings also included rocket, tomato, mozzarella and more of that gorgeous basil and kale pesto. The sourdough bread differentiates itself from others of its ilk: not too tart, softer and easier to manage than most chewy sourdoughs, and the crust retains a good crunch and integrity.
We were stuffed after such a feast, but did manage to find room for gelato. They have a range of new gelato flavours, including clementine sorbet and an intriguing vegan banana and chocolate chip. I, however, opted for the white chocolate and blackcurrant ripple, which proved a good choice. The gelato is light and soft, not too heavy after a course of filling pizza.
I should mention that it was Valentine’s Day. The staff had laid out candles to lend an intimate ambiance, and we were led to the far room where a veritable classroom of other couples were also seated. Pizza, a product of Italy, that most romantic of countries, is a good cuisine for sharing. The staff were attentive, cheerful and friendly.
It can be hard to distinguish oneself as a sourdough pizza joint in London nowadays, but it seems as though Four Hundred Rabbits has more heart than most. They don’t have the impersonal, faceless vibe of larger chains – they remember their roots. They know to restrain themselves where they need to, in order to allow their strengths to shine through.
