Lillie Langtry review
Lillie Langtry review
Fulham’s The Lillie Langtry serves up a locals’ vibe with pub grub that raises the bar. Reviewed by Helen Down
Newly renovated Lillie Langtry, a stone’s throw from West Brompton tube, is where Brit pub fare meets Parisian chic. Filled with locals and pub grub that goes the extra mile, there’s an irresistible warmth to the place that’s enhanced by Lillie’s recent facelift: a giant skylight encircled by cascading greenery, chandeliers galore and flecks of vintage.
Lillie’s scotch egg swaps the usual sausage meat for ‘Nduja. But the star of the show is the house piccalilli, which delivers punchy sparks of flavour – no jarred nonsense here. Likewise, the smoked haddock croquettes wouldn’t be Lillies-worthy unless served with truffle hollandaise. Unfortunately, the truffle’s signature musk was outtrumped by dill… but a hit nonetheless. After spotting turmeric fried pickles on the menu, there was no way we’d leave it unsampled. Although the vinegar dominated, respect to the chef for turning a potentially sloppy veg into a crisply coated novelty.
Next up: fish and chips… because there’s no better way to judge a pub’s grub than by the classic F&C. Fortunately, Lillie didn’t disappoint. The fish was so fresh it could’ve leapt straight over from Brixham. The batter was so crisp, it protested when cut. And even the king of the triple fry – Heston Blumenthal – would’ve been happy with the chunky chips. Meanwhile, the delicate seabream, with skin like pork crackling, was oozing butteryness and buffeted by a pile of crushed new potatoes and their perfectly caramelised edges. If only there’d been room for pudding, I would’ve jumped at the ‘Grown-up’s Hot Choc’ with Baileys, cream and marshmallows.
Sadly, we couldn’t go on a Sunday. But the roasts look spectacular on paper. And I can’t imagine many better ways to languidly while away the last hours of the weekend. So if you’re hankering for a laidback atmos with cooking that shows just how good pub grub can be, then book yourself a table.
Price range: approx £35-40/head for 3 courses + drinks
Address: 19 Lillie Road, London, SW6 1UE