Review: Sticks’n’Sushi Kingston
Review: Sticks’n’Sushi Kingston
Kingston’s newest dining destination
Taking over a giant two-floor space that was previously the West Elm furniture store, Sticks’n’Sushi has a prime site on the corner of the Bentall Centre. Following the success of the brand’s first UK restaurant in Wimbledon 11 years ago, the restaurant has rapidly expanded across the UK, and there is set to be a new outpost in Richmond, too. The Kingston restaurant is the chain’s largest outpost to date, and features a central kitchen on the ground floor where you can watch the chefs at work. In the good weather, there is a terrace out front to soak up the sun.
Just a week or so after opening, it was already buzzing with locals keen to find out what this new spot has to offer. We were seated towards the stairs, with guests on one side of the table able to view the open kitchen. While the space is large, it is divided well and with clever design, it retains a cool, almost warehouse vibe without feeling cavernous. There’s plenty to please the eye, with its ethos being to mix Japanese and Scandinavian aesthetics while also reflecting the local heritage in each of its restaurants.
We started with a cocktail – I tried a Yuzu Zoo – gin with plum wine, yuzu and honey – delicious, sweet, sour and not cloying. My dining companion’s Plum Sazerac was also an excellent twist on a classic with cognac stirred with plum wine, plum bitters and served in an absinthe-perfumed glass.
The menu is long and we were torn as to what to try. There’s a wide range of ‘sticks’ while the rest of the menu features an impressive selection of sushi and sashimi and Japanese favourites.
If you want to take some of the decision-making out of the process, you can opt for the set menus. We went for the Carpe Diem (£93 for two people). This included an incredible grilled broccoli dish, delicious tempura shrimp, crab croquettes (my favourite), tuna tartare bites (generous but needed a little more citrus to cut it), salmon carpaccio (served with roe and with a lovely marinade), then on to a range of wonderful sushi rolls such as Hell’s Kitchen with tempura shrimp.
We found the chicken meatball skewers were on the sweet side for our tastes but they were cooked beautifully. It was all stunningly presented with some real stand-out dishes.
To finish, there are little pots of loveliness such as matcha financier, crème brulee and white chocolate pannacotta. We tried the matcha and a gateau marcel. But note that they are little. They are priced at £3.50 each or you can choose four for £12. Don’t even think about sharing just one!
As with any good Japanese restaurant, it’s never going to be the cheapest way to dine out but you can choose carefully so that costs don’t rack up too much. Equally, if it’s a special occasion, you can go all out .
What’s particularly nice to see is the offering for kids – cute little boxes offering sushi, sticks, rice and edamame for £10.
The service was friendly, attentive and even though the place had only been open a few weeks, it was all working extremely well.
A great addition to the Kingston dining scene.
Price: around £40 to £50 per head with drinks.
Address: The Bentall Centre, Wood Street.