Review: The Silver Birch
Review: The Silver Birch
Located in a prime spot on leafy Chiswick High Road, The Silver Birch is the perfect spot for dining on a long summer’s evening, finds Ellie Holmes
We arrived and were warmly greeted by restaurant manager Yas, who presented us with a light refreshing elderflower sparkling wine, foraged and produced by The Silver Birch. Crisp and not too sweet, it was much appreciated after a hot stint on the tube, and these fresh delicate flavours set the tone for the evening.
Much of the cuisine at The Silver Birch is locally produced and seasonal – the tomato and artichoke starter certainly represented that. Beautifully presented, the Isle of Wight tomatoes, baby artichokes, quinoa and consommé was delightful and provided an interesting twist on more conventional tomato salads.
The other starter didn’t disappoint either….Isle of Mull scallop which was presented in a shell on a bed of seaweed. The scallop was plentiful and perfectly cooked, served in a light foam sauce which complemented but didn’t overpower the main event.
For our mains, I carried on the vegetarian track and went for the new season Wye Valley asparagus, broad beans and St George’s mushroom.Both green and white asparagus still had their crunch but were soft to eat, and the mint was a subtle accompaniment to the broad beans.
The butter-poached Cornish turbot, courgette flower and tartare roe sauce was sublime and we both enjoyed the warm sourdough which we heartily dipped into a pea puree butter.
For dessert, we went for strawberries (it is Wimbledon soon after all) and thoroughly enjoyed the shake up of traditional strawberries and cream which comprised of ‘Lemken strawberries, elderflower cream cheese and strawberry sorbet.’
The pear and brown sugar tart was served with gingerbread, which balanced the flavours well and we devoured them both.
It is clear that the newly appointed head chef Nathan Cornwell is making an impact at the helm of the kitchen. His past positions include stints at Copenhagen’s Geranium, which boasts three Michelin stars, and at Stockholm’s Kadeau. Most recently he has spent four years at The Barn at Moor Hall in Lancashire. His wealth of experience is palpable in the dishes.
The interior of the restaurant matches the mood in its cool and clean disposition, with contemporary green leather and warm wood creating a relaxed but smart atmosphere. There is also a private dining area, which takes up to 14 people. The area is slightly partitioned off but also feels part of the main restaurant, and has a crittall window looking into the kitchen where you can see the master chefs at work.
Echoing its tree namesake, The Silver Birch restaurant represents purity and is a delightful dining experience for something special on a summer’s evening.
