Review: Sunday roast at the Duke of Greenwich
Review: Sunday roast at the Duke of Greenwich
What makes a good Sunday roast?
It’s a harder question to answer than one might think. A Sunday roast is a staple of British life, a much-loved classic, a crowd pleaser. But what distinguishes one roast from the rest? You don’t necessarily know until you get it.
A scenic train ride followed by a stroll through the peaceful, idyllic back streets of Greenwich will take you to the doorstep of the Duke of Greenwich. They have recently launched a brand new menu, including all-new Sunday roast offerings, featuring meats sourced from Lyon’s Hill in Dorset and fresh fish from James Knight of Mayfair, sourced in Cornwall.
A truly great Sunday roast isn’t just about the food – it’s about the atmosphere. One step into the Duke of Greenwich told me I was not to be disappointed. It’s a light, elegant and friendly gastropub, with an open kitchen where the welcoming, accommodating staff chat to the chefs. The main bar opens out into long, airy seating areas which lead from wide glass doors into an idyllic garden frequented by neighbourhood cats. The overall vibe is one of a gorgeous seaside gastro, in keeping with the maritime legacy of Greenwich.
Their Sunday roast menu comes with a hair-of-the-dog special: a smoky Bloody Mary mixed with mezcal called a Mezcal Bloody Maria. Mezcal seems to be all the rage these days, and the minds behind the Duke of Greenwich know exactly how to make it work. The smoky flavour worked perfectly with the tang of the tomato juice, and the drink was at once invigorating and tasty. The perfect Sunday kick.
In terms of food, there is a range of options. From the mains, you can choose from a 28-day aged beef silverside, a Dorset lamb shoulder and a vegetarian option of plant-based roast chicken and herb stuffing. All the roasts are served with beef fat roasties, cauliflower cheese, roasted carrots and fennel seeds, buttered greens, sweet potato mash and red wine gravy. There’s also a tantalising selection of small plates, including black garlic hummus and flatbread and king prawn and nduja bruschetta.
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It was recommended to me and my guest to try the Early Spring Special: a whopper of a sharing board with double loin of Dorset lamb, apricot and parsley stuffing and all the trimmings. It arrived promptly with gorgeous presentation: the lamb, succulent and juicy, presented on a round plate alongside the stuffing and Yorkshire puds cooked to perfection – crispy on the outside with a delightful fluffy centre.
The cauliflower cheese arrived in its own tray, and we were assured upon its arrival that we were allowed unlimited refills. It quickly became clear why: the cauliflower cheese was truly divine. It’s not always the case that the trimmings are just as good as the meats in a Sunday roast, but the Duke of Greenwich clearly knows that to elevate the whole you have to make each component shine.
The veggies all held their own. The sweet potato mash was deliciously creamy, the roasted carrots packed with flavour, with just the right amount of sweetness.
We moved into the garden to eat dessert. It was a gorgeous spring day and we soaked in the atmosphere, receiving visitations from more than one local cat. Our desserts – respectively a chocolate and maple syrup tart and a peanut butter cheesecake with caramelised banana – were the perfect way to end the afternoon, although we did have to admit defeat after such a feast and leave them unfinished.
It becomes clear that there are several bench-markers for a truly great Sunday roast. But does the Duke of Greenwich tick all the boxes? Atmosphere – check. Succulent meats – check. Delicious veggies that hold their own – check. Great service – check.
I’d recommend this to anyone looking for a lovely Sunday day out. A tranquil paradise in the heart of Greenwich.
